Hair Cutting Techniques

Haircutting is the very foundation of hairdressing. A well cut head of hair will style more easily, retain its line and shape.

1. Basic Hair Cuts

A. Blunt cut

The hair is cut in one length without any graduation which is apparent, although the hair length actually is shorter at the nape and longest at the top. The hair is cut flat at 0 degree elevation. The hair may be divided into four sections:

• A parting from middle of the forehead to the middle of the nape.
• A parting form ear to ear

B. U-cut

If the fingers are directed upward unsloping styles like U, concave or rounded effects can be produced.

• The hair is divided in two back sections and the side is divided in three vertical sections.
• The section on the ears may be further divided into two for making a guideline for the front hair.
• Only the last section is used for cutting a fringe.

C. Boy cut

The hair cut may be started on the sides over the ears, taking a line parallel and straight in front of the ear and diagonal in relation to the natural hair line behind the ear. Usually the procedure involves starting at the nape of the neck.

D. Step cut

In this the cuts differ in lengths and weights on both sides of the head. These cuts produce a comparatively softer perimeter line, but still retain enough weight in the cut hair style, as against the straight cut. There is a small amount of graduation of up to 45° in cutting.

E. Tapering

With the scissors held in the cutting position already described, with the thumb and the third finger inserted in their respective handles, the hand is turned so that the palm comes upwards, and the thumb is removed from its handle hole.

Hair dresser turns the hand round with palm towards the body, holding the scissors very loosely, and half open, and waves the hand backwards and forwards from the wrist. He/She cuts the piece of hair, held upwards and taut in the left hand, by a gentle swinging or waving of the hand, and holding the scissors half open, brings the partly open blades under the strip of held hair. The half-open scissors slitherinig up and down this piece of hair, actually thins in the downward stroke.

F. Razor Cutting

Originally the open cut-throat type of razor was used for this work, but as its use requires great skill and many years of practice and experience, particularly in keeping the razors really sharp – most ladies’ hairdressers prefer to use the modern hairshaper with blades that are replaceable and are more convenient and therefore more practical.

For razor cutting the hair is kept wet (generally done after hair has been shampooed), to avoid any pull on the hair which can be unpleasant. Many hairdressers do finish a haircut with a little razoring on the dry hair, but the razor has to be very sharp and held at such an angle as to give a good cutting edge. The razor is held in the one hand and a piece of hair picked up with the other and thinned or shaped to the desired weight, thinness or point.

Very careful surface razoring, lightly, following the razor with the comb, can help to finish a short haircut much more perfectly. Razoring generally is undoubtedly an attractive way of cutting hair. One can, however, only too easily remove much more hair than originally intended, hence great care and practicing is very essential.

2. Finishing Techniques

A. Cross Checking

When the general thinning, tapering, clubbing, cutting, or razoring of the hair is thought to be completed, cross checking is necessary. This must of course be according to the type of haircut desired.

B. Removing Neck Hairs

If the hair is cut short a certain amount of hair may appear on the neck which must be removed. In the old-fashioned cutting this hair was often removed with a pair of clippers. This is to be avoided if possible and the hair should be removed with the points of the scissors, generally with the comb underneath to protect the neck, but the skilful operator will be able to remove this hair with the point of the scissors and will place the finger on the point to help control it if necessary.

It is vital when carrying out this part of the work to hold the blades of the scissors flat to the neck. These fine hair can be removed with he use of hair clippers, electric clippers or razor.